I mean there’s not much to see or do outside of the Timurid architecture (and the Navitsky museum), BUT that is enough. Truly some of the most stunning buildings I’ve ever seen - glory to the Soviets for rebuilding them all. The ceiling in the Ulugh Beg madrassa is one of those great works that feels like it justifies all the terrible things human beings do. Also I had a few drinks at 1 AM and was sitting outside Tamerlane’s tomb when the guard offered to let me in for a few bucks, so I got to sit inside by myself for a while.

The food is mostly whatever, but they do truly profound things with eggplant here at least. And it’s one of the few places around that is still genuinely cheap; pretty easy to get a meal for $5, or just get a loaf of fresh street bread for 40 cents.